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Tenuta San Guido - Sassicaia

Pris pr. stk. 2.500,00  DKK

Vinen har en mættet rød-lilla, næsten blålig farve og en dyb duft af modne solbær, brombær, cedertræ, tobak og ristede fadnoter som integreres fuldt ud med alderen. I munden vil man opleve et svimlende koncentrations- og ekstraktionsniveau med tæt, kølig og mørk bærfrugt og fine polerede tanniner. Vinen har nok modenhed til at kunne nydes allerede som ung og samtidig nok syre, struktur og ekstrakt til at kunne gemmes i mindst et par årtier. Forvent dog ikke at en Sassicaia når sit højdepunkt før omkring 10 års lagring under de rette forhold. En kolossal vin som bør opleves mindst én gang i livet.

San Guido
Grill, Kalv, Kød, Lam, Oksekød, Svampe, Vildt
Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon
0,75 liter
Alkohol %

Sassicaia blev oprindeligt produceret oppe i bakkerne bag San Guido, men efterhånden som vinen fik succes er arealet blevet udvidet og da familien disponerer over mere end 2.500 hektar har der været nok at tage af. I dag kommer frugten således fra en mosaik af små parceller både oppe på skråningerne og nede omkring domainet. Mere end 90 ha. er der efterhånden tale om, og herfra ender de bedste partier Cabernet Sauvignon og Cabernet Franc i Sassicaia.

Bolden begyndte at trille da 1972-årgangen blev verdensberømt overnight, da den ved en blindsmagning placerede sig foran 33 andre Cabernet Sauvignon dominerede vine, herunder hele den måbende top fra Bordeaux. Den var det første varselsskud om, at der var såkaldte supertoscanere på vej og langsomt og på trods af at Sassicaia aldrig har været voluminøs, generøs og umiddelbar som dem en ung Robert Parker løftede frem mod berømmelse blev Sassicaia langsomt et ikon på den italienske vinscene.

Vinen har fået tid til at gennemgå den malolaktiske gæring i det rustfrie miljø inden den i december er blevet fyldt på franske fade (33% nye) hvor den er modnet i 24 måneder frem mod det endelige sammenstik og aftapningen på flaske.

Først i 1994, da det tilplantede areal havde passeret de 250 ha., kom revision af DOC-regulativerne, som lukkede rødvinene ind i varmen og samtidig placerede Sassicaia som en helt særlig Bolgheri Superiore. En position som blev udbygget i 2013 da myndigheder løftede Sassicaia op på den aller øverste hylde i det italienske hierarki. Sassicaia sin helt egen Denominazione di Origine Controllata Bolgheri Sassicaia.

Og det fantastiske er at  Sassicaia 's stjerne nu mere end 50 år senere blinker stærkere end nogen side, selvom der med omkring 200.000 årlige flasker ikke længe er tale om en lille nicheproduktion, og selvom vinen fortsat kan virke så urimeligt reserveret som ung, at anmeldernes rutinemæssige topvurderinger kan forekomme noget rutineprægede.

Det er i dag Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta 's søns adoptivsøn Sebastiano Rosa, der står bag Sassicaia i et nært samarbejde med en af Italiens førende kvindelige vinmagere Graziana Grassini. Giacomo Tachis havde spottet Graziana allerede i 1980'erne, da hun skabte sine første vine for Castello del Terriccio og han hentede hende ind i kredsen omkring San Guido. Så da den gamle mester lod sig pensionere i 2009 trådte Graziana Grassini op ved siden af Sebastiano Rosa.

99 point

Extremely captivating in the sensory profile, profound and slightly austere the Sassicaia 2018 shows complexity and tension in its aromatic mediterranean picture, the son of a splendid vintage in Bolgheri-Sassicaia. The scents of linden blend with notes of elderflower and coriander setting the primary scene, solid and performing. With the passing of the seconds in the glass the wine evolves showing the beauty of only a few thoroughbreds in its elegant vivacity and slightly snobbish scents of walnut husks, green tea leaves and cracked walnuts. The intriguing frame that makes up the tertiary soul of the layered wine alternates the opalescence of the perfectly controlled reduction with mediterranean herbs with notes of marjoram, origano and parsley. On the palate the wine is delicate and persuasive showing a perfect extraction of the poliphenolic components. The tannins are silky and companiable, fused with the natural acidity of the wine. The progressive sip closes without shyness or uncertainty with brilliance and concentration. It is precise and juicy with the grace of a young bordolese blend made up of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. Extraordinary now but the Sassicaia 2018 will be better from 2024 onwards.

Wine Enthusiast
98 point

All about radiance and finesse, this iconic Tuscan red has beguiling aromas of cedar, wild red berry, menthol and pipe tobacco that mingle with fragrant blue flowers. Made with 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc, the focused, elegantly structured palate is vibrant and savory, delivering cassis, orange zest, licorice and a hint of coffee framed in taut, polished tannins. Bright acidity keeps it energized and balanced.

International Wine Report
98 point
Robert Parker
97 point

97+: This is a classic vintage of an Italian icon now celebrating its 50th vintage. The Tenuta San Guido 2018 Bolgheri Sassicaia lays out a familiar blueprint that borrows from the proven track record of this landmark estate that extends into the hills just beyond the Tyrrhenian shores of Tuscany. This vintage is crystalline and pure in its delivery, and if you are familiar with previous editions, it is impossible to mistake this wine for anything but Sassicaia.

97 point

The 2018 Sassicaia is fabulous. Bright and beautifully poised, the 2018 opens with brilliant aromatics that make a strong first impression. Delicate and light on its feet, the 2018 is a regal wine that is going to need a number of years to come into its own. Sassicaia is the most finessed of Bolgheri’s top wines. That is very much the case in 2018 as well. I loved it. A cold winter led to a late spring and delayed start to the year. May and June saw some heat, but only moderate temperatures. Only July was truly warm, with minimal diurnal shifts. Cool winds arrived again in August, and temperatures dropped quickly, especially at night. Mid-August saw some rain. Harvest started on September 7 with the Franc and wrapped up on the 29th with the last of Cabernet Sauvignon. The year favored the estate’s oldest vineyards, those on hillside sites. The 2018 spent 19 months in oak, two-thirds new, a bit more new oak than the norm. The blend is 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Franc, a bit less Franc than is often the case, as Franc suffered more under the conditions of the season.

James Suckling
97 point

Beautiful, serene aromas of sweet berries and wild flowers with light lavender and fresh sage. Really aromatic. A firm, silky red with medium to full body and ultra fine tannins that are polished and beautiful. Lots of blue fruit and blackberries follow through to a beautiful finish. Really tight and polished. Bright acidity. Will be lovely to drink in a few years. The 2017 and 2016 were about power, but the 2018 is about finesse and subtlety. Try after 2024.

97 point

The 2018 vintage was fresher than usual in Bolgheri, mainly due to a rainy spring which was challenging, but also following a cooler end to August. The higher vineyards on which Sassicaia could rely produced grapes with an outstanding quality of phenolics, benefitting from a useful fruit-set and mild September. The severe selection of the grapes - with a level of production similar to that of the dry 2017 - did the rest. Restrained red and black currant aromas are allied to aromatic herbs such as eucalyptus leaf and rosemary, completed by coffee bean, earthy tones and cedar. This is a wine focussed on fresh fruit, with a savoury citrus finish proving its depth. The tight-knit structure is firm with chalky yet ripe tannins and extremely fresh, natural and long acidity. More elegant than powerful, this 2018 is perfectly integrated with the Sassicaia style, full of tension. Not immediately ready to drink but promising stunning finesse.

Luca Gardini
98 point

98P+: Intense and bright dark ruby red color, vertical nose with recalls of blackberries, eucalyptus, hints of Mediterranean scrub, touches of pink pepper and taggiasca olive. The mouthfeel is taut, elegant, deep, enhanced by salty tannins and recalls of citrus and red fruits, very drinkable.

Wine Spectator
96 point

Refined and complex, this red is all about finesse and restraint, starting out with floral and black currant flavors that build steadily on the palate, with olive, cedar, tobacco and spice notes adding detail as this lingers on the terrific finish. Needs five to seven years to fully emerge.

97 point
#3 - Top 100 Wines of 2021